The upcoming FX television series "Love Story," produced by Ryan Murphy, has drawn significant attention for its painstaking efforts to accurately recreate the signature minimalist style of Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy. The show chronicles the relationship between Bessette-Kennedy and John F. Kennedy Jr., who both died in a plane crash in July 1999.
Lead actor Sarah Pidgeon bears a striking resemblance to Bessette-Kennedy, while Paul Anthony Kelly portrays John F. Kennedy Jr. The series' costume design, a critical element given Bessette-Kennedy's status as a fashion icon, became a focal point after early leaked images from the set faced substantial online criticism for appearing too modern and inauthentic.
Backlash Leads to Costume Designer Change
In response to the criticism that the initial costumes looked like "fast-fashion" and failed to capture Bessette-Kennedy's upscale, minimalist aesthetic, the production brought in a new costume designer, Rudy Mance. Mance told Variety he understood the protective sentiment fans felt, stating, "I get it. I'm protective of [John and Carolyn] as well. We all just wanted to be as precise and accurate as possible."
Mance and his team embarked on months of study, comparing paparazzi photographs of the real couple with the costumes being created. They prioritised sourcing archival and vintage pieces to achieve authenticity. "We found her Prada and Valentino coats, and fitted some Levi's so that they looked exactly how they fit Carolyn," Sarah Pidgeon told Vogue.
The Challenge of Recreating a Private Life
One of the greatest challenges was depicting Kennedy's style before she entered the intense public spotlight. "Everybody knows what they wore from 1996 to 1999, but we were telling the story of how they met," Mance explained to Glamour. The series shows her in simple, iconic pieces like a black turtleneck with flared capri pants and leather loafers, reflecting her life as a Calvin Klein employee.
Pidgeon, who studied paparazzi images to understand her subject, told Vogue that the early online discourse reinforced the importance of her task. "The online conversations at the beginning of the process served as a reminder of how important it was to get our portrayal of Carolyn correct... People really, really love Carolyn, and my priority every single day on set was doing justice to her legacy."
Style as a Gateway to Character
While Bessette-Kennedy's wardrobe is central to her on-screen portrayal, Pidgeon emphasised that the clothing was a starting point for capturing the full person. "She is known as this minimalist fashion icon, but I learned that she was also vivacious, funny, and had a wildness about her," the actor told Vogue. Key looks recreated include the strapless black Yohji Yamamoto gown she famously wore, as well as her off-duty uniform of loose Levi's 517 jeans and a monochromatic coat.
The production's commitment extended to ensuring Pidgeon's garments fit identically to the originals. Mance was dedicated to using true recreations or archival pieces whenever possible, even for deceptively simple outfits like a white Yohji Yamamoto blouse and floor-length black skirt from 1999.