Pecorino Romano, one of the world's oldest cheeses with origins in Ancient Rome, is now predominantly produced outside its original territory of Lazio, Italy. The shift has been driven by global demand, particularly from the United States, which has reshaped the industry's geography. One of the last producers still operating within Lazio, I Buonatavola, credits exports for its continued survival.
The cheese's Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status allows production in specific regions of Lazio, Sardinia, and the province of Grosseto in Tuscany. However, the vast majority of output now comes from Sardinia, not the area around Rome where it originated.
Export Markets Sustain Historic Producer
At I Buonatavola, a producer adhering to the traditional methods within Lazio, international sales have been crucial. "Exports helped keep this historic producer alive," the report states, highlighting how global appetite has provided a lifeline for authentic, territorially-rooted production.
The business model contrasts with larger-scale operations in Sardinia, which benefit from greater milk supply and economies of scale to meet international demand. This divergence illustrates a broader trend of traditional food products adapting to modern global markets.
Distinct Characteristics of Origin
There are noted differences between Pecorino Romano made in its original Roman territory and versions produced under the PDO elsewhere. Cheeses from Lazio often emphasise specific local terroir and ageing practices linked to the area's historical methods.
The specific microclimate, native pastureland for sheep, and traditional ageing caves in Lazio contribute to a product profile that some connoisseurs distinguish from cheese made in other authorised regions.
Box: What is Pecorino Romano?
A hard, salty cheese made from sheep's milk ('pecora' means sheep in Italian). It was a staple food for Roman legions. Today, it holds PDO status, meaning only cheese produced in designated areas of Lazio, Sardinia, and Grosseto following strict rules can bear the name.
Historical Context and Modern Reality
With roots stretching back over two millennia, Pecorino Romano's history is deeply intertwined with Roman culture and cuisine. Its production was centred on the countryside around Rome for centuries.
The modern relocation of most production is a direct consequence of 20th and 21st-century market forces. The surge in popularity, especially as a grating cheese in international markets, required production capacities that the traditional Lazio area could not sustain alone.
The future of traditionally made Pecorino Romano in Lazio appears dependent on niche markets and consumers willing to seek out and support cheese from its original territory. Producers like I Buonatavola demonstrate that while global demand pulled production away, it can also provide the specialised audience needed to preserve these historic practices.